Our second, and much anticipated, stop in Germany was Bacharach. Located in the heart of the riesling grape region of Germany, and a much frequented stop on the Rhine river cruises that run up and down the river, Bacharach is just what you’d expect: exceptionally quaint. I mean look at this picture for goodness sake, does it get any quainter? (is that even a word?)

This is a picture from the main street area of the town where a lot of the hotels and restaurants are located. The town is pretty small and easily walkable which was nice after all the walking we did in Frankfurt.

We arrived in Bacharach at the beginning of September, close to harvest time for the riesling grapes. The wreath and decorations you see in this picture are in celebration.

One of the downsides to all this quaintness are the narrow streets. Driving a car down these suckers isn’t for the faint of heart (neither is walking on them while a car is barreling toward you). But, hey, that’s most of Europe. We were lucky in that our hotel had a small garage for guests.


When we got into town we were pretty hungry, so we stopped at Rusticana, a legit Bavarian establishment. Complete with animal hides and antlers on the walls. The couple who owns the place were very nice and partway through our time there, the husband arrived with the day’s fresh vegetable delivery (how cool is that?). The food was very typical German/Bavarian: think schnitzels and dumplings.

Not pictured: Restaurant Altk√∂lnischer Hof. My husband enjoyed his meal. Mine was over-seasoned to the point I ate about half before my stomach couldn’t take it anymore. They beef was also not the freshest.


Afterwards we decided to take a hike up to Stahleck Castle.¬† It was built in the 12th century, but now it’s a hostel, so not available for touring, but we walked around the environs.

There were a lot of good views and photo opportunists along the path, and thank goodness because after a hearty meal and temps in the 80s, I needed a few breaks.

On our way up to the castle, we stopped at the Wernerkapelle, a ruin with a sad history of medieval anti-Semitism. During the 19th century this was a prime spot on the grand tour and shows up in a lot of sketches from the time (also a big hit with the romantic movement).

Up towards the entrance to the castle/hostel.

View of the Rhine from the base of the castle. There are a couple of benches to sit on and take it all in, and we did!

Bacharach highlights:

architecture: utterly adorable

sites: a surprising amount of interesting historical sites for such a small town

size: being a small town it was easily walkable

Bacharach lowlights:

hotel: We stayed at the Hotel am Markt in the heart of the city. The location was good, but our shower leaked, and there was a weird smell coming up from the drains in the bathroom. Upon check-out they tried to double charge us, claiming we hadn’t paid (which we already had through Expedia). It took over an hour to get Expedia to force them to not charge us and when they finally realized they had made a mistake they just shrugged and said “Sorry.” Would not recommend this place. AVOID!

Have you read my last post about our time spent in Frankfurt? You can here!